Massawa,  was once called the Pearl of the Red Sea. It was a rich city and its port was considered the largest and safest in the entire area during the Italian colonization. The squares and the labyrinth of streets were full with people walking and enjoying small restaurants and ice cream shops while the smell of coffee and ginger spread in the air.
Then, the war, the destruction, the flight of many young Eritreans to seek a better future.
Now Massawa is a ghost town and I walk among the ruined and destroyed houses and palaces built through the centuries by Arabs, Turks, Portuguese, Italians and English.
Eventually, after decades of conflict with neighboring Ethiopia, the peace treaty was signed last July 2018. There is now a subtle hope spread in the air, the road will be long and winding but the time to rebuild has just begun.